The culinary landscape in London is ever-changing, shaped by shifting tastes, economic pressures, and the creativity of chefs and food entrepreneurs. Among the various cuisines making a mark in the city, Filipino food has steadily grown in popularity over the last few years – introducing Londoners to the rich and diverse flavours of the Philippines.
Sadly, the traditional restaurant model, long been the primary way to experience new cuisines, has been facing significant challenges. Difficulties in the F&B space, rising food costs, and the steep price to maintain a brick-and-mortar establishment have led to a new era in how food is accessed and enjoyed in London.
Challenges Facing Brick-and-Mortar Filipino Restaurants
Opening and sustaining a restaurant in London has always been a difficult task, but recent economic pressures have made it even more daunting. The cost of rent, especially in prime locations like Central London, continues to climb, while food prices are also on the rise due to supply chain issues and inflation. Staffing, too, remains a challenge, with labour shortages affecting the hospitality industry across the board.
For Filipino restaurants, these challenges are particularly acute. While the demand for Filipino food is growing, the financial realities of running a traditional restaurant have led to closures and high turnover. Some beloved Filipino establishments have shuttered their doors, like Romulo Café in Kensington and Sarap on Heddon Street (pictured below), unable to keep up with the mounting costs.
Alternative Avenues for Filipino Cuisine
In response to the challenges faced by brick-and-mortar restaurants, Filipino chefs and food entrepreneurs have turned to alternative platforms to bring their cuisine to the masses. These include pub residencies, pop-ups, market food stalls, and online delivery services, each offering a unique way to savour Filipino dishes.
Pub and Pop-Up Residencies
One of the most exciting developments in London’s food scene has been the rise of pub and pop-up residencies. These semi-permanent setups allow chefs to share their food without the long-term commitment and financial burden of a permanent location. Filipino cuisine has found a strong foothold in this trend, with various places offering everything from classic adobo to modern Filipino fusion dishes.
For instance, Turo Turo by Chef Rex De Guzman is a pop-up pub residency at the Queen’s Head Pub in Holborn, having first started out as a travelling food stall before happily settling down roots (for now) in a central London location.
Chef Budgie Montoya’s Apoy in Market Halls Oxford Street is a food hall favourite. Fans and followers continue to support his endeavours, with Apoy the latest in his projects building on the great word of mouth from his previous pop-up, Sarap.
These and many others have gained a following by hosting pop-ups and collaborations at different locations across the city, introducing a wide audience to the bold yet comforting tastes of Filipino cooking.
Market Food Stalls
London’s vibrant market scene has long been a haven for diverse and delicious street food, and Filipino cuisine is no exception. Food stalls specialising in Filipino dishes can now be found in markets across the city, from Borough Market to Spitalfields.
One standout is Filigrillz, known for their authentic grilled meats and hearty rice dishes, which has become a staple at various food markets, including KERB food market and Victoria Park market. These stalls not only offer a quick and easy taste of the Philippines but also foster a sense of community among Londoners and Filipinos alike.
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Online Delivery Services
The rise of online food delivery has been another game-changer for the Filipino food scene in London. With the proliferation of delivery apps and convenience of online shopping, Londoners and other customers around the UK can enjoy Filipino dishes from the comfort of their homes. This has allowed delivery-only companies to thrive, catering to the increasing demand for Filipino cuisine.
Brands like Lolo Ben and Uncle Pinoy have capitalised on this trend, offering e-commerce solutions for otherwise hard-to-find Filipino food (longganisa and pork belly lechon, respectively). Similarly, large online retailers such as Kuya’s Tindahan and Pinoy Supermarket have seen an explosion in growth now that online grocery shopping is increasingly the norm.
Filipino Food in Established Grocers
Beyond restaurants and delivery, Filipino food is also making its way into some of London’s most established and prestigious grocers. This marks a significant shift in how Filipino cuisine is perceived and accessed in the city.
A New Era of Accessibility
No longer confined to specialty stores, some artisanal Filipino food items are now available in mainstream or Western grocery stores, making it easier than ever for Londoners to incorporate the palate into their everyday cooking. This increased accessibility is a testament to the growing recognition of Filipino cuisine as a vital part of London’s culinary scene.
Spotlight on RoniB's Kitchen
Leading the charge in bringing Filipino flavours to a broader audience is RoniB's Kitchen, a UK-based artisanal brand that produces a range of Filipino sauces, condiments, and marinades. Founded by Roni Bandong, RoniB's Kitchen has quickly gained a reputation for its high-quality, authentic products that showcase the best of Filipino ingredients and culinary traditions.
These products can now be found in prestigious grocers such as Selfridges on Oxford Street, Kavanagh’s in Belsize Park, Panzer's Deli in St. John’s Wood, and Greensmiths Deli and Grocery in Waterloo.
Award-winning and popular products like Filipino Banana Ketchup, Kalamansi Marmalade, and Adobo Sauce offer both Filipinos and non-Filipinos the opportunity to experiment with and enjoy Filipino tastes at home. The presence of RoniB's Kitchen in these high-end retailers not only highlights the brand's quality but also signifies the increasing appreciation for Filipino cuisine in the UK.
The Future of Filipino Food in London
Despite the challenges, the Filipino food scene in London is resilient and continues to evolve in exciting ways. The shift from traditional restaurants to alternative platforms has allowed Filipino cuisine to reach a wider audience and adapt to the changing economic landscape. Whether through a pop-up in a trendy pub, a food stall in a bustling market, or a jar of artisanal sauce on a supermarket shelf, Filipino flavours are becoming an integral part of London's diverse culinary scene.
As Londoners continue to embrace Filipino food, it’s clear that this cuisine has a bright future in the city. The adaptability and creativity of Filipino food entrepreneurs ensure that these vibrant flavours will remain accessible and beloved, no matter the challenges.
The Future of Filipino Food in London
The evolving Filipino food scene in London reflects the broader trends in the city’s culinary landscape. As traditional restaurants face increasing pressures, alternative avenues like pop-ups, market stalls, and online delivery are providing new ways for Londoners to experience and enjoy Filipino cuisine. At the same time, the presence of Filipino products in established grocers like Selfridges signals a growing recognition of the cuisine’s place in the mainstream market. As the scene continues to evolve, one thing is clear: Filipino food is here to stay, and its journey in London is just beginning.